The balance of Madness and Festivity when a Swell Hits Malibu
Story by Ben Horton
Malibu is a surf spot that has its own set of rules, it’s a place where you can have seven people drop in on you and nobody (but you) seems the least bit perturbed. It’s also a place where an old salty dog will mow you down with his 12 foot longboard if you drop in on him. The flat days when there’s no swell can be the most crowded. I think it’s most likely because there’s a ritual around Malibu surfing, and most of the people in the water are there putting in their time, soaking in the feeling of being in the ocean, hanging with their friends, and paddling out to where their cell phones can’t be seen or heard. On the days when the swell arrives, it’s the biggest melting pot of surfers in the USA, and this can lead to some intense interactions.
When Connor Guest first posted his Malibu edit, I thought I was going to be watching another surf film showing just the epic rides and beautiful waves that everybody posts about. What I ended up watching perfectly explains why Malibu is such an amazing break, and why I don’t surf there. It’s a place that contradicts itself. You can have the ride of your life in Malibu, but you’d better put in your time and learn the local ethics. If you’ve surfed Malibu, you’ll get a kick out of this film!
Here’s Connors own words about his film.
After finishing my own session at Malibu First Point, I knew I had to grab my camera. I wanted to capture the madness of every set wave rolling through. So my goal with this edit was to recreate the atmosphere and the feeling that was in the air all day.
October has surely been a month to remember in Southern California. One of the biggest south swells since Hurricane Marie graced our shores early in the month, with waves pumping and calm winds from sunrise to sunset. The sites at Malibu surely never seem to disappoint, either.